Givenchy Hot Couture Eau de Parfum Mango blossom, too, is sometimes used in perfumery: as sweetly floral as youd imagine these soft white flowers to be, with a breath of lily of the valley about them. Harvesting techniques have become somewhat more sophisticated since the time when labdanum was collected from the coats and beards of sheep and goats that grazed on these tough little shrubs! LArtisan Parfumeur Timbuktu The fruit of Ribes rubrum itself, though, is fruity, green and tart, often incorporated into a cocktail of fruity notes which are then woven mostly into fruity-florals: that category of perfumes whose star has been in the ascendant, in recent years often fresh, youthful and vibrant. Versace Versus. Byredo Gypsy Water ', Caron Fleur de Rocaille Chanel Coco (We know many people who say that tomato leaf is their first scent memory, perhaps introduced by a much-loved grandparent who wants to share its so-distinctive, scented furriness.) An aldehyde (see below) with a characteristic green, musky odor, "Agrumen is a fragrance compound used as a base in perfume creation," explains Spongell CEO Elaine Binder. What it gives to fragrance, though, is a fresh, crisp, mouthwatering quality, reminiscent of biting into an apple itself. Of those, approximately 100 different substances are known to The West Indian bay tree Pimenta racemosa with its leathery leaves, belongs to the myrtle family. Neroli is a citrus oil distilled from the blossoms of either the sweet or bitter orange tree. Calvin Klein Eternity Cartier Eau de Cartier (This rose is also known as Rose de Mai, because it generally blooms in the month of May, and romantically the painters rose, because it features in many works of the old masters.). Crabtree & Evelyn India Hicks Island Living Spider Lily It may not come as a surprise, though, to discover that this is a synthetic, or fantasy, ingredient rather than something lovely distilled from desserts, puddings or candies. Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille. ", Natural musk comes from the glands of the musk deer and is one of the most expensive perfume ingredients. But nowadays, synthetic musks have widely replaced ambrette, on grounds of its priciness. Nez Nez The Unicorn Spell Happily for civet cats, most of the civet now used is synthetically recreated, for ethical reasons (the cats are kept in cages and stressed, in order to produce the secretion) although we have heard that some small perfumers still secretly source the real thing, a practise we absolutely cant condone. Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Jeans. Lorenzo Villoresi Piper Nigrum Byredo Rose Noir Diesel Loverdose Fields of flax are heart-stoppingly maybe even car-stoppingly beautiful, with pale blue flowers wafting in the breeze. Gucci Flora by Gucci Gorgeous Gardenia Yardley English Lavender. Guerlain Rose Barbare So the legend goes, Orchis son of a satyr and a nymph (quite a combo) stumbled upon a festival of Dionysus (a.k.a. Robert Piguet Mademoiselle Piguet Guerlain Terracotta Eau Sous le Vent The sacred herb;, the Romans called it and pretty sacred sage is, too, to perfumers. It's okay if the answer is "not well at all." Tom Ford Caf Rose Burberry Burberry Woman Frederic Malle Bigarade Concentre Natural perfumers whose palette of ingredients is limited love it, as it delivers an animalic quality yet is cruelty-free, generally harvested from hives that have matured over five years or so, carefully harvested by hand and then extracted using solvents. Now, as we know, its in countless foods, and most of us have a love-hate relationship with the stuff. Yardley English Lavender. And did we say sexy? Chanel Les Exclusifs Cuir de Russie Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire According to the Australian Orchid Society, "Old Totonac lore has it that Xanat, the young daughter of the Mexican fertility goddess, loved a Totonac youth. In perfumery, apricot can be lush and sweet like the fruit or bitter, like the extract of the apricot kernel (think of an Amaretto-ish bitter almond scent). Fragrances today are mostly a fusion of ingredients taken from nature or inspired by nature together with the synthetics (man-made ingredients) that are used to make them last longer, carry further, or stay true, when worn on the skin. Dior Hypnotic Poison Creed Impriale Millesime Herms Terre dHerms Violet leaves smell quite different to the flower which emerges later. Clinique Calyx Marc Jacobs Dot (Think of the way that lemon can cut through rich flavours, in cooking, and you get an idea of why the two work so well together.) Comme des Garons 8 88 Short for rumbullion or rumbustion, slang words which meant tumult or uproar (which can be what happens after one rum cocktail too many, even now). Today, we can garland ourselves with bay through the use of fragrance: its a green, herbal note, maybe giving whispers of oregano and thyme, if you smell carefully, with subtle sweet hints of flowers. "Over the past twenty years, oud has become a phenomenon in Anglo perfumery. Water and As May swings round, the Crataegus monogynatree bursts into a froth of sweet-scented blooms, which have long been symbolically linked in the Pagan tradition with fertility and sexual abandonment. Linalool is a super common fragrance ingredient. "Jasmin Sambac adds richness and naturality to all my creations and is quintessential for my floral bouquets.. Thats really the smell of cedar, which is of course also the wood used for pencils. Burberry Body Guerlain Aprs LOnde Unfortunately, the downside of citral is that it can lead to sensivities and allergies so IFRA (the International Fragrance Association) regulates that it has to be used only with other ingredients that prevent a sensitising effect, and insist its labelled. Naturally, its a synthetic fantasy ingredient: you cant distil a metal, or extract it through enfleurage! And though its more popular in Indian perfumes, papyrus can still be enjoyed in some stunning contemporary scents. Crabtree & Evelyn Lily Chanel Coco ), and in pomanders to protect against infection. It can be described as ambery, leathery, woody, animalic, honey, warm, smokey, balsamic, fruity and overall brings a sophisticated warmth to a fragrance," says perfumer Linda Song. And so, Amaretto (the drink) was born. Cartier Dlices de Cartier There are many different varieties of this Mediterranean shrub, but today its the flower tops of Garden Thyme (a.k.a. Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely Its a sensory experience: that candied breath of sugar. Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille, ReadThe Perfume Candy Boy's Guide to Vanilla,here. Can it purr? Says 'nose' Julie Mass: 'I use cassis to give a delicious, moreish touch. (Now that wed have loved to smell), As perfumer Alienor Massenet explains, 'tonka is warm and smooth - but unlike vanilla, it can remind you of hay. This yummiest of fruits originates from Central Mexico (guacamole-land!). Givenchy Ysatis Serge Lutens Daim Blonde In Classic myth, the rosewas linked both with the Greek goddess Aphrodite and her Roman counterpart, Venus. Its collected from the stems in small drops (tears). ChloEau de Parfum Donna Karan Donna Karan Interestingly, the Thierry Mugler brand now says its ageing its fragrances in wood casks an echo of the wine and spirits world, By Kilian Back to Black Taif roses have 30 petals and grow around the city of Taif in western Saudi Arabia, not far from Mecca. All types of petitgrain contain aroma compounds known as geraniol and linalool that are known to trigger sensitivity in some people, so are listed on perfume packaging. Something else to slip into your handbag, then: different dried fruits are now recreated in perfumery fantasy ingredients (i.e. An ancient natural remedy, lavenders a flowering member of the mint family well, several members, because different types of lavender are used in perfumery. Lush Orange Blossom Serge Lutens Santal Blanc Pears themselves are a fruit-bowl staple today (though only really satisfying when truly in season, wed say). In perfumes, lavender is typically used either as a top or a middle note. Calvin Klein Escape. Serge Lutens Arabie Dior Poison Methylene chloride is often found in fragrances and is one of the most common beauty product ingredients. Linalool is a fragrance ingredient found naturally in lavender, mint, and other plants. Vivienne Westwood Boudoir Diptyque LEau Trois Cartier Dlices Karo-karounde (also sometimes written as karo-karunde) is considered to be an aphrodisiac and is used in the rituals of sexual magic, in the Congo! I see it as an addictive woody, licorice-like, and resinous," says perfumer Nelly Hachem-Ruiz. Just one downside to this uplifting fruit: the oil must be used with caution: anything but the teensiest squeeze can prove phototoxic, staining the skin if worn in sunlight. (There is a really well-researched, well-written article on aldehydes on the Perfume Shrine blog, if youd like the science bit in much more depth click here). Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Creed Vetiver "Aldehyde adds an effervescent and bubbly almost kinetic feeling to fragrance," says perfumer Adriana Medina. The gourmet food world has just discovered marshmallows, with designer marshmallows becoming available. And its used as incense and burned on altars, as a way of communicating with the heavens. Even more confusingly, the perfume ingredient doesnt even come from amber itself that time-hardened resin of Pinus succinifera, which is often shaped into jewellery. Yves Saint LaurentOpium. Givenchy Amarige A white-flowering bush or tree found in Haiti and South America, amyris is often used as a less-expensive substitute for sandalwood. The odor profile of this multifaceted material includes sweet fresh hay notes along with blond tobacco and soft, creamy nut-like nuances," says perfumer Gwen Gonzalez. (Closer to home, this shiny-leafed exotic can often be found on sale as a potted plant in garden centres and some natural food stores: one single open flower can perfume a room, its so heady and lush.). Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Camellia Taif rose is especially prized in perfumery, beloved for its deep fragrance which is even more intense than the better-known Damask rose to which its related. Penhaligons La Violetta KenzoKenzo Amour Florale (The seeds, meanwhile, can also be used in pot pourri.). Shay & Blue English Cherry Blossom. Is there anyone doesnt love the smell of new-mown grass? ), Amouage Memoir Woman Jovoy Psychdelique A couple of cutting-edge perfumers Romano Ricci (with Not a Perfume) and Geza Schoen (Escentric Molecule 02) have daringly based an entire perfume around this synthetic note, which was discovered in the 1950s as a replacement for ambergris. These apparently delicate flowers - a.k.a. Roses are said to feature in at least 75% of modern feminine fragrances, and at least 10% of all mens perfumes. The name comes from the Latin, so were told: lavere means to wash, and the Romans perfumed their baths with lavender oil. baies rose is also edible, though, with a citrussy flavour.). Widely used in cooking, too, in south-east Asia and perhaps most famously, to flavour chai - its slightly camphorous properties work to freshen breath. 15 Jo Malone London Sweet Lime & Cedar James Heeley Cardinal It was the legendary fragrance Angel which really put caramel as an ingredient on the map: that sweet, seductive, eat-me quality which gourmand fragrances embody.

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